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Swapping a bezel made easy? Many watch owners who want a change of look or need to replace a damaged rotating bezel toy with the idea of a swap. But can you simply change the bezel on your Omega, Rolex or other luxury watch without any trouble? We show you when a DIY swap can make sense, give practical tips on how to do it and explain what consequences the modification can have for the future value of your timepiece.
Is a Bezel Swap Possible in Principle?
We won't build up any unnecessary suspense and will answer the question in the title right away: Yes, you can generally fit a new bezel to your Tag Heuer, Breitling or any other luxury watch – apart from rare exceptions – as long as the bezel is not an integral part of the case. This requirement is met by all rotating bezels, such as the 24-hour bezel of a Rolex GMT-Master II or the 60-minute dive scale of a Tag Heuer Aquaracer.
Fixed bezels, as found on the Datejust, can typically be replaced as well. The decisive question is how much effort the swap involves in each individual case. While older models usually let you replace the ring around the dial yourself, quickly and safely, current watches often feature more complex mechanisms. If you want to change the bezel on these, the need for expert knowledge increases and doing it yourself becomes riskier.
Many brands, such as the Sinn watch manufacture, rely on captive safety bezels that prevent the bezel from popping off after an unlucky knock – and that don't allow for a child's-play swap.
Should Only a Professional Change the Bezel?
Many online guides rule out changing the bezel of a luxury watch yourself under any circumstances and recommend having all work carried out by a trusted watchmaker.
That's a view we don't share 100 percent: Although the experience of a competent professional minimizes the risk of damage during the swap, many older bezels in particular are so simple to replace that any watch enthusiast with a touch of dexterity can do it. In the end, it comes down to your personal risk tolerance: If you saved for years for your Seamaster and want to avoid even the slightest scratch at all costs, you shouldn't change the Omega bezel yourself and should go to the most renowned watchmaker in your area instead.
[box type="success" align="" class="" width=""]For everyone else, the following section shows how to change a bezel without damaging your wristwatch.[/box]Changing a Rolex Bezel: The GMT-Master II Example
A prime example of easy interchangeability is the aluminum bezel of older Rolex GMT-Master II models. While more modern editions make things harder for the owner, the earlier rotating bezels rely on a simple snap-on mechanism. To remove the bezel, you need a flat tool; we recommend buying a professional case opener for a few euros, which lets you work more precisely than with spatulas and other alternatives recommended in online forums.
After wrapping the case opener in thick tape (e.g., electrical tape) to avoid scratching the watch, press the opener between the case and the bezel, which will then pop up. Careful! Underneath the bezel sits a small spring that is easily lost, hard to find again and expensive to replace. A larger table as your workspace is therefore strongly recommended. The bezel you're now holding consists of two components: the bezel ring and an insert ("inlay") made of aluminum (or ceramic in many modern watches). The insert can be carefully pressed out of the bezel ring with even pressure.
From Pepsi to Batman – now is the right moment to swap the bezel. To successfully replace the ring around the dial, the bezel ring (without the insert) must finally be placed onto the spring in the correct orientation. The swap has worked if the bezel ring rotates properly on the watch and the familiar clicking feel is there. Finally, press the insert into the bezel ring with even force from all sides – and the swap is complete.
Does the Watch Lose Value?
Whether you want to change a Tag Heuer bezel or an Omega is the focus: The modification comes with financial risks. The primary problem is the loss of original condition, which is penalized with lower resale prices, especially on the Rolex market.
Two levels of modification need to be distinguished: While most collectors and enthusiasts are still understanding if you have a damaged bezel replaced with a new part of the same type ("the Pepsi stays a Pepsi"), swapping the bezel just for a change of look is considered taboo.
[box type="note" align="" class="" width=""]If the Pepsi turns into a Batman, the watch loses its originality and, at the same time, its reference number, because that number was assigned to a completely different model.[/box]Our tip: If you swap the rotating bezel of a luxury watch, be sure to keep the original part so you can refit it before selling the watch later. Otherwise, no serious collector will be interested – or only at a price noticeably below the market value of original-condition editions.
Risk: A Bezel Swap Can Cost You Manufacturer Service
If you want to swap the bezel, there's another aspect to consider: the manufacturer's service. Especially with expensive luxury watches, it's common practice to entrust the masterpiece to the respective brand in case of problems or damage, but also for regular servicing.
If, for example, you've had the Omega bezel changed and send the luxury watch to Switzerland, the manufacturer may refuse service because the watch is no longer in original condition. In the short term, this may not be a problem, since good watchmakers can maintain the timepiece independently of the manufacturer, but in certain cases (e.g., elaborate complications) only the manufacture has the necessary expertise.
[box type="info" align="" class="" width=""]Before having a bezel changed that won't be replaced with an original spare part, you should take this risk into account.[/box]
