« Automatic Chronometers from Junghans, Breitling, Omega, TAG Heuer and Rolex »
Watches bearing the name "Chronometer" enjoy an excellent reputation, even though not everyone knows exactly what the term means. In today's article, we explain what sets chronometer watches apart and present the most popular models from renowned top brands across various price ranges. You'll also learn how three of the most important certifications differ and which manufacturers use them.
Chronometer: Definition and Key Certifications
One of the most common mistakes among watch newcomers is confusing chronometers with chronographs. While the chronograph is a complication (additional function) that lets you time events in addition to the regular time display, a chronometer is a precision watch that has been awarded a certificate by a neutral official institution after passing a chronometer test. To earn that certificate, the watch must be finely adjusted (regulated) in various positions and at varying temperatures. The chronometer test focuses on whether the watch meets specified precision standards. Put simply, chronometer watches are watches with proven, exceptional accuracy.
Watches can be granted this coveted status by various testing bodies. The best known is the COSC (Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres), which is used by most manufacturers and essentially tests whether an (uncased) movement keeps its rate deviation within -4 and +6 seconds per day. Stricter still is the METAS chronometer certification, carried out by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, which tests fully assembled watches under demanding conditions. METAS-certified chronometer watches may deviate from perfect timekeeping by no more than -5/+5 seconds per day. METAS works closely with Omega, but in theory it is open to any brand. By contrast, the "Superlative Chronometer" title from Rolex is reserved exclusively for the brand's own luxury watches; the test is carried out in addition to a successfully passed COSC certification and demands a maximum deviation of -2/+2 seconds.
METAS: Omega's Precision Watches
Launched by Omega in 2015 with the goal of raising the bar set by COSC precision standards, METAS certification ranks among the most prestigious distinctions in the watch world. Watches that pass may call themselves Master Chronometers, a title that carries considerable prestige above all because it certifies magnetic resistance of at least 15,000 gauss. Interestingly, every METAS movement has already passed COSC testing beforehand. The new generation of the Speedmaster Moonwatch, introduced in 2021, is one of the most prominent bearers of the title: powered by the hand-wound caliber 3861, it offers a 50-hour power reserve and uses a silicon balance spring to ensure long-term accuracy at the highest level.
Omega's lineup also features automatic chronometers in abundance – from the rugged Seamaster collections to the elegant De Ville. However, some models, such as the popular Speedmaster 38, "only" carry a standard COSC certificate. Omega intends to change this by 2023 and make all of its models Master Chronometers. Other brands have also recognized the potential of METAS certification – since 2021, for example, Tudor has awarded its Black Bay the rigorous certificate.
Breitling: Every Watch Is COSC-Certified
Breitling, on the other hand, relies fully on the proven COSC testing introduced in 1973 and has, for years, released every single model as a chronometer watch. Whether it's the pilot's icon Navitimer, the legendary dive watch Superocean or compact women's models such as the Chronomat 32 – no winged B reaches the wrist without officially certified precision testing. This is especially important for Breitling newcomers to know, because the manufacturer prices its in-house movements, such as the popular B01, significantly differently from sourced ETA-based movements. The premium of roughly €2,000 to €3,000 charged for the in-house movement in collections such as the Superocean Heritage therefore doesn't buy you noticeably greater accuracy, but rather a 70-hour power reserve, the sophisticated column-wheel mechanism and other technical highlights.
The most popular are legendary classics such as the Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43, which live up to their official distinction right in their name and leave no doubt about their certified precision. If you like your watches especially imposing, the new Super Chronomat in a 44 mm case is a spot-on choice.
Rolex: Stricter In-House Testing
Rolex's automatic watches are among the most rigorously tested in the industry. Since 2015, in parallel with the launch of its new movement generation with a generous 70-hour power reserve (see caliber 3255), the industry's most famous luxury brand has awarded the Superlative Chronometer title to watches that have already passed COSC testing and, after casing, additionally pass the brand's in-house testing, which requires extremely low rate deviations of no more than -2/+2 seconds. Power reserve, water resistance, automatic winding and other technical aspects must also meet the toughest requirements.
The prime example of certified horology is the current Submariner ref. 124060 with caliber 3230, whose blue Parachrom hairspring is one of the central highlights of the modern movement generation. The brand-new 2022 Datejust generation (ref. 126300), with its automatic chronometer caliber 3235, likewise demonstrates how the Geneva luxury brand lives up to its great name through technical excellence. The fact that Superlative watches always come with a COSC certificate provides customers with double assurance and the certainty that, despite the brand's high in-house standards, an independent party is still involved.
TAG Heuer, Junghans and Co.: COSC as an Upgrade
Breitling's practice of distinguishing within its product portfolio between chronometer watches and more affordable alternatives without certification is widespread in the industry. TAG Heuer, for example, tends to ship its entry-level models without COSC testing, while higher-positioned editions carry the official precision certificate. The automatic chronographs of the current TAG Heuer Carrera collection (e.g., ref. CBN2A1A.FC6537) are among the most sought-after models in the brand's portfolio; they are powered by the in-house Heuer 02 movement and come with a COSC certificate. The same applies to the Autavia Flyback, which stops, resets and restarts its chronograph function with a single push of a button. Even the entry-level Formula 1 collection offers a COSC certificate in its upscale versions – a certification that can be awarded to quartz movements just as it can to mechanical calibers.
Traditional German brand Junghans likewise gives buyers of its prominent Meister collection the choice between chronometer watches and regular models. One of the most coveted models among precision enthusiasts is the Meister ref. 027/4130.00, which combines silvered elegance on the dial with timeless lines and an automatic movement visible through a display caseback.
