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Since its introduction in 1993, the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M has been one of the Swiss luxury brand's most successful collections. Last thoroughly updated in 2018, this water-ready all-rounder currently comprises 22 references, ranging from classic stainless steel to luxurious solid gold. Visual signatures such as the laser-engraved ceramic dial with its wave pattern make the diver instantly recognizable, complemented by mechanical Co-Axial power and a valuable James Bond heritage.
A Watch for the Charming 007
The Omega SMP's big moment came two years after its debut, when the world saw it on Pierce Brosnan's wrist in "GoldenEye" (1995). Chosen as the film watch because of Omega's history with the British Navy (in which 007 once served), it was a perfect match for Brosnan's gentlemanly character. Both the secret agent and the timepiece master the balancing act between everyday charm and ruthless toughness when the situation demands it.
In this way, the SMP 300 became part of the Bond identity, which drove up its sales figures just as much as the many model variants that followed. From 007 editions to titanium chronographs and solid gold versions to a red special edition for the Japanese market, the 2000s produced an incredible variety. The identity of the Omega Seamaster wavered: positioned at varying intervals as a refined dress watch and as a hardcore tool watch, it took a quarter of a century to find a stable character.
Grown in More Than Just Size
That character comes through in the 2018 generation, which strikes a middle ground between elegant features and an appropriate expression of its rugged core. Compared with the original model from GoldenEye, the dimensions have grown noticeably: the diameter has gone from 41 to 42 millimeters, and the thickness from 11.5 to a hefty 13.5 millimeters. The four ceramic references even measure 43 millimeters across. Its size gives the Omega SMP a substantial yet well-balanced feel on the wrist – even slim men's wrists with a circumference of 16 centimeters can wear the Seamaster comfortably.
Six case variants are available: stainless steel, two-tone, and one reference in 18k rose gold are joined by lightweight versions in ceramic, titanium, and exotic graphite-gray tantalum. Apart from the limited-edition tantalum reference 210.60.42.20.99.001 (2,500 pieces), all models feature a ceramic diving bezel with a count-up minute scale. Depending on the reference, the scale is made of white enamel or the brand's proprietary Ceragold alloy. A key design feature is the twelve scallops around the edge of the bezel, which improve grip on the rotating ring and literally give the diver its rough edges.
New Conical Helium Escape Valve
Speaking of design features: the Omega SMP carries over the helium escape valve at 10 o'clock from its predecessors, more for reasons of aesthetics and consistency than for practical considerations. That is due to the component's special purpose – it was designed primarily for use in helium-rich decompression chambers and is therefore relevant only to professional divers. What is new is its conical shape, reminiscent of a small volcano with a large crater. The crown guard is likewise of limited use in everyday life, but it underscores the powerful look of the Seamaster Professional, and the current collection would be unthinkable without it.
Typical of the SMP's maker, a striking bevel runs along the lugs. It gives them a twisted, three-dimensional look and points toward the strap. The strap comes either in the case material or as a lighter rubber or NATO version. If you want to amplify the substantial presence on the wrist, go for the solid bracelet, which features a new design with a patented push-button extendable clasp including a diver's extension. If, on the other hand, maximum practicality for swimming or outdoor use is the priority, we recommend the lighter (and less valuable) straps.
Symmetry and Waves on the Dial
Several of the luxury diver's distinctive features come together on the Omega SMP's dial. First and foremost is the ceramic surface, available in four colors (black, white, blue, chrome) and marking a return to the popular wave motif of earlier Seamaster collections. Unlike older designs, the waves are no longer physical recesses but are applied by laser engraving. As before, they give the maritime instrument tremendous recognition value in the otherwise rather uniform jungle of modern diver dials. Another decisive change concerns the Seamaster Professional's date window, which has moved from 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock. The result is a pleasing symmetry that we consider one of the most important innovations of the SMP 300. That said, the adjustment shouldn't be underestimated if you've used a 3 o'clock date for years.
The Seamaster Professional's skeleton hands, which have been subtly reworked, have always been among its most striking details. Like the seconds hand, they are coated with Super-LumiNova. A clever detail is the two-tone luminescence: the indexes, hour hand, and seconds hand glow light blue, while the minute hand and the 12 o'clock pip on the bezel glow green. This noticeably shortens the time it takes to read the watch in the dark. Visually, the coordination between dial details and bezel is appealing: if the bezel has a Ceragold scale, the hands and index surrounds also shine in the reddish precious metal.
A Clear View of the Master Chronometer Caliber
The domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides on the front of every Omega SMP is matched by an equally scratch-resistant sapphire caseback. Beneath it, the ceramic and tantalum models (no date display) are powered by caliber 8806, while the remaining Seamaster Professional editions use the 8800 (or the upgraded 8801 in the case of the solid gold version). As you would expect, all automatic movements carry chronometer certification from the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), complemented by a respectable power reserve of 55 hours and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss thanks to a silicon balance spring. Aesthetically, the movements impress with a rhodium-plated winding rotor whose Geneva wave arabesques convey a refined look familiar from many Omega watches.
According to the manufacturer, prices for the Omega SMP range from €4,800 (stainless steel on rubber, e.g., Ref. 210.32.42.20.04.001) to €22,600 for the 18k solid gold reference 210.62.42.20.03.001. In between are the two-tone editions (from €6,800), the ceramic models (approx. €8,000), and the rare tantalum version (€12,900). You can find an overview of our Seamaster models here:
- 300
- 300 M Chrono Diver
- 300 M Chronometer
- 300 M GMT Chronograph
- Aqua Terra 150 M Day-Date
- Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer
- Aqua Terra 150 M GMT
- Aqua Terra 150M GMT Chronograph
- Aqua Terra 150M Quartz
- Aqua Terra Annual Calendar
- Aqua Terra Automatic
- Aqua Terra Chronometer
- Aqua Terra Mid-Size Chronometer
- Diver 300M
- Diver 300M Chronograph
- Bullhead
- Planet Ocean 600 M Co-Axial Master Chronometer
- Planet Ocean 600 M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph
- Planet Ocean 600 M Co-Axial Master Chronometer GMT
- Ploprof 1200 M
- Railmaster

