« The Feminine Constellation in Its Fifth Generation »
Since its debut in 1982, the Omega Constellation Manhattan has ranked among the most distinctive and popular women's watches of our time. After more than 35 years of success and four generations of feminine elegance, the Constellation story continues with a reinterpretation of the Manhattan, spanning a truly impressive range of more than 100 variations. But how does "Number Five" hold up against its predecessors? We took a closer look at this promising collection and came away with some surprising findings.
Delicate, Progressive and Sought After Worldwide – the Constellation
The history of the Omega Constellation dates back to 1952, when the prestigious brand from Biel/Bienne launched the first wristwatch to bear the name. Its timeless, slender look caused a stir back then – and today, the original models rank among the most coveted vintage pieces of all.
While the famous Omega Seamaster and Speedmaster collections stand for functionality and ruggedness, the Omega Constellation, together with the De Ville watches, is clearly the jewel of this storied manufacturer. So it was only a matter of time before the classic timepiece would get a thorough facelift.
That facelift finally arrived in 1982 – in the form of the first Constellation Manhattan. Unlike its predecessor, it favored edges and angles over pure elegance. And it worked: the four claws on the case edge, the unmistakable "Mono-Rang" bracelet and the almost seamless transition between case and bracelet gave this masterpiece instant recognizability. These features would later become the core of every Manhattan model. Yet the Constellation 1980 is also a much-sought-after model and is currently being offered at sometimes exorbitant prices.
The Constellation ´95 in 1995, the Double Eagle in 2002 and the most recent revision in 2007 followed as three further editions, each showing a cautious yet visible evolution of the classic.
The most obvious differences lie in the four claws, also known as "griffes," which became wider and flatter on the later models. The international success of the Constellation Manhattan, from Paris to Hong Kong, shows that this design has apparently struck a chord with women of the most varied tastes.
A Legend in New Attire
At first glance, the fifth edition, released for the 2018 model year, differs only slightly from its 2007 predecessor – and in many eyes perhaps not at all. So is the new Manhattan just the same old watch? Not at all. You just have to look a little closer.
One interesting detail of the new timepiece is the beveled edges on the case and bracelet, which give it a slimmer, even more dynamic presence than its predecessor. The griffes, once strikingly prominent and occasionally called clunky by critics, now seem to merge with the case and come across as almost shy. If you look very carefully, you'll also spot the modified crown, whose teeth now take on a half-moon shape.
Over the course of the Constellation's history, the dial has also become more meticulously detailed, which is especially evident in the flat and now skeletonized minute and hour hands.
The date window of the new Omega Manhattan, formerly square and at 3 o'clock, is now round and has moved to 6 o'clock.
The sum of these subtle details makes the model appear more feminine, refined and self-assured than the fourth generation - and at the latest in a side-by-side comparison, even the last skeptics should see the difference.
An Impressive Range of Models
That the Omega Constellation traditionally comes in many variants is nothing new. But the sheer number of versions of the new Manhattan is likely to make the decision tough for even the most determined buyer: no fewer than 101 different designs make it one of the broadest women's collections in the history of the watch industry. This variety comes not only from six different dial colors but also from a range of material combinations.
Alongside steel and classic yellow gold, the materials include the brand's proprietary "Sedna" alloy, an 18K red gold variant. Named after a planetoid at the outer edge of the solar system, it gives off a particularly deep red glow thanks to its palladium and copper content.
Three sizes are available: 25, 28 and 29 mm. This means the previously largest 31 mm version disappears from the lineup, which may be due to strong demand for smaller models in the Asian market. Omega also strictly separates quartz and automatic movements by case size:
While the two smaller versions are available exclusively as quartz watches, the 29 mm model always comes with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8700/8701. It delivers a power reserve of 50 hours – remarkable, especially for a small watch – and can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. As is typical for the Swiss luxury brand, it plays in the top league when it comes to precision and resistance to magnetic fields.
A Grand Launch with a Star-Studded Lineup
The new Manhattan collection was unveiled last fall in Shanghai. The honor went neither to New York, which would have been the natural choice given the model's name and history, nor to Paris, London or any other Western metropolis. The reason is simple: no market is as important and promising for Omega – and for other luxury brands – as Asia. Just recently, Breitling presented its new Premier collection at a lavish gala in Beijing.
Naturally, a launch like this wouldn't be complete without celebrity guests. While Breitling relies on actors Brad Pitt and Daniel Wu, Omega boasts a top-tier lineup of female stars: alongside Cindy Crawford, who has been the face of the luxury brand for more than 20 years, Alessandra Ambrosio, Nicole Kidman and Chinese actress Liu Shishi lent the event its prestige. In doing so, the storied brand from Biel/Bienne underscores not only the feminine character of the series but also the enduring importance of famous brand ambassadors.
But even without these faces, the fifth-generation Manhattan could look forward to promising success thanks to its rich history: with fine details making it even more feminine and elegant than its predecessor, the women's collection strikes a successful balance between classic timelessness and modern accents. Today, it's hard to imagine what a sixth generation could possibly improve.
