« In Search of the Perfect First Luxury Watch »
Seasoned watch collectors will tell you that the early days are among the most exciting phases of a horological passion. When the thirst for knowledge runs high and the love affair is still young, so does the desire for that first luxury watch. Three of the leading Swiss entry-level brands are Hamilton, Certina and Tissot, because they combine first-rate quality standards and rich histories with outstanding value for money. Here you'll find out which of the three is the best fit for you.
Why These Brands in Particular?
Anyone who is new to the world of watches and wants an overview of affordable watch brands is practically buried under an avalanche of information. While startups dominate social media, big-name fashion brands gleam in big-city shop windows. The problem with both alternatives: instead of offering genuine substance, they mostly rely on Chinese imports and make customers pay for marketing or a famous logo.
Many newcomers would never even imagine that proven Swiss quality is possible at the same price point – say, €400 –. And this is exactly where the manufactures Certina and Tissot come in: just like Hamilton, they belong to the Swatch Group and benefit from the extensive resources of the world's largest watch group. These resources make it possible to use reliable mechanical movements, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and high-quality stainless steel cases in a price range where fashion brands have nothing more to offer than a glittering façade and basic quartz movements.
Three Histories, Three Characters
Quality benchmarks in the present are one thing; historical significance in watchmaking is another. Tissot, Hamilton and Certina master both disciplines: all founded in the 19th century, they made important contributions to the progress of the watch industry – even before Rolex was founded in 1905.
The oldest member of the trio is Tissot, one of the many success stories from the watchmaking town of Le Locle.
Founded in 1853 by Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son, the company gained great popularity selling pocket watches assembled from supplied parts in the USA and Russia, before producing its first wristwatches in 1915 and its first in-house movements in 1920. Even more significant is the brand's role in the creation of today's Swatch Group: in 1930 it joined forces with Omega to form the Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH), which in turn merged with the Allgemeine Schweizerische Uhren AG (ASUAG) in 1985 to become the Swatch Group.
Two years earlier, Certina had joined this groundbreaking alliance. If we had to sum up the manufacturer, founded in 1888, in a single word, it would be robustness. Already hinted at in the turtle shell of its logo, Certina's functional spirit took shape in the DS concept (Double Security) introduced in 1959, the most famous innovation in the company's history. It delivers exceptional water resistance and shock resistance.
Hamilton also builds rugged models, but rose to fame by other means: founded in Pennsylvania in 1892, the brand caused a stir with offbeat watch designs such as the triangular Ventura or the electronic Pulsar. With appearances in more than 500 productions, Hamilton is also considered the number one movie watch brand. It joined the Swatch predecessor SSIH in 1974.
Considerable Overlap in the Product Portfolios
The companies' histories are reflected in the brands' current ranges: Tissot focuses on classic watches, while Certina specializes in rugged premium watches and Hamilton in creative designs. This classification should be taken with a big grain of salt, however, because the boundaries are fluid and each of the three brands offers several models in the categories of dress watch, dive watch and sports watch. That's why the question "Certina or Tissot?" in particular comes down to weighing personal preferences. One example: if you're looking for a generous selection of elegant timepieces, you'll find what you want in both Tissot's T-Classic collection and Certina's Urban line. There, however, the similarities between individual models such as the Le Locle and the DS-8 are so great that a brand-neutral watch lover can hardly form a clear preference.
Still, a few differences between Certina and Tissot are worth mentioning. First, the size of the range: while Certina's lineup is concentrated in four collections (Aqua, Heritage, Sport, Urban), Tissot is known for its enormous variety. Not only in women's watches but also in smartwatches, the manufacturer leads our trio. Apart from a few exceptions, though, there is a Tissot counterpart for every Certina model and vice versa.
So if you want to buy your first luxury watch and have found a favorite, it's worth checking out the other brand as well, just to be sure – its version might be even more appealing.
Original and a Little Bit Crazy: What Makes Hamilton Special
Hamilton's product range is just as extensive, but somewhat more specialized. Unlike Certina and Tissot, it has American roots, which show above all in the design of the Khaki Aviation pilot's watch. It shares its high level of robustness with the legendary Khaki Field and the Khaki Navy dive watches, all of which come across as more masculine than Certina's elegant sports watches.
If you like things a little more extroverted, Hamilton is without a doubt the place to go: not only does the brand impress with a large selection of skeletonized men's and women's watches within the Jazzmaster collection, it also offers completely independent lines with models such as the Ventura or the PSR.
On top of that come regular special editions as part of its extensive involvement in film, such as the recently unveiled Tenet Edition of the Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO, which makes Hamilton an especially attractive choice for movie buffs.
Comparing Watches Always Pays Off
With their diverse collections, Hamilton, Certina and Tissot are among the most exciting options for a first luxury watch. We recommend that every new enthusiast take enough time to explore all three manufacturers. The chances of finding a well-made, attractively priced favorite are extremely high with the Swatch brands. Because the companies' quality standards and value for money are virtually identical, only one criterion ultimately decides: personal taste.
