The market for pre-owned timepieces is huge and enjoys great popularity for good reason: not only does it offer dramatic savings on your dream watch, it also brings high-end brands such as Breguet or Blancpain within reach and opens the door to long-discontinued models. But risks such as hidden defects or inflated prices are an everyday reality here, too. We share the most important advice for a successful pre-owned purchase.
Essential: The Dealer's Reputation
The sad truth is that even experienced watch lovers regularly fall for the schemes of fraudulent dealers. They trust the beautiful photos, perfect descriptions and seemingly complete sets, even though Photoshop, crafty copywriters and forged papers are often hiding behind the facade. Some of these deceptive listings are so convincing that there is no realistic way to detect the fraud.
That is why our rule number one is: pay attention to the dealer's reputation! A dealer who has been selling pre-owned watches for many years, employs in-house watchmakers for quality control and can point to hundreds, if not thousands, of positive reviews is hardly going to risk a hard-earned reputation on the next sale. And should something go wrong after all, sensible customer service and transparent communication will clear up any inconvenience.
"Certified Pre-Owned" – Greater Peace of Mind with Certified Watches
Whether Rolex, Breitling or Omega: in connection with pre-owned watches, you increasingly come across the term "Certified Pre-Owned," which many online dealers such as Uhrinstinkt use. It is a seal of quality confirming that the timepiece has been inspected by an experienced watch expert. This process should include not only verification of authenticity but also a complete overhaul of the movement.
Any polishing that may be required must be carried out in a way that preserves the original finish. Naturally, this effort comes at a price, so certified watches are generally not the biggest bargains. In return, they offer strong protection against disappointment and clear certainty about the condition of the model.
This also means that the dealer clearly discloses any flaws, such as scratches, and factors them into the price. To get as accurate a picture of the seller as possible, we recommend asking one or more questions – friendly, knowledgeable and prompt answers reinforce the impression of a reputable source.
Box and Papers: How Important Is a Complete Set?
From Tissot to Tudor, from Maurice Lacroix to Longines: when new, every timepiece is delivered with its original box and papers documenting its history. With pre-owned watches, these components are often missing, which raises the question of whether they are necessary.
Our answer: although papers can provide useful information about previous owners, servicing and any defects, they are not a must when buying from a trustworthy dealer such as Uhrinstinkt. Thanks to its expertise, such a dealer is able to get an exact picture of the watch's condition even without documentation and pass it on to the customer.
What matters, however, is that the absence of a box or papers should mean a lower price compared with an equivalent model sold as a full set. To judge whether an offer on a pre-owned watch is fair, you need to study the brand in question yourself and stay informed about current price trends.
Supply and Demand Determine the Price
The fact that these trends are driven largely by market conditions is a key insight when it comes to pre-owned watches. It is not the brand name, the material or the retail price, but desirability that decides what a reference costs.
For example, an elaborately handcrafted gold Breguet Tradition with a retail price of €26,000 may cost only half that after ten years, while steel Rolex classics such as the Ref. 16610LV "Kermit" see a massive increase in value to more than €20,000. Anyone who wants to sell a pre-owned watch or buy one must be aware of this disconnect between prices and quality standards and should research the desired model thoroughly.
This applies especially to pre-owned watches from higher-priced brands such as Omega, Breitling or Tudor. More affordable editions from Tissot, Longines and Maurice Lacroix, on the other hand, are subject to only minor price fluctuations and carry hardly any financial risk.
Factor In Care and Running Costs
Speaking of risks: at the outset we mentioned that pre-owned watches are a wonderful way to enter the world of haute horlogerie. Let's be honest – what enthusiast doesn't dream of top brands like Patek Philippe, solid platinum cases or high-end complications such as perpetual calendars or tourbillons? When these masterpieces are offered at a fraction of their retail price and suddenly fit your budget, the temptation becomes unbearable.
To avoid nasty surprises, prospective buyers should find out about servicing and potential repair costs in advance – factors that are especially relevant for pre-owned watches in the luxury segment. If you want to buy a pre-owned watch, it is also advisable to study its complications beforehand: mistakes such as advancing a mechanically programmed perpetual calendar or pulling out the crown while a minute repeater is chiming can cause enormous damage.
The Intention: Hobby or Investment?
How much weight you give to factors such as market conditions, running costs or the completeness of the set when buying a pre-owned watch depends largely on your reason for buying.
If appreciation in value is the priority, market conditions become all the more important, while running costs and risks are rather secondary, since the watch is kept safely in a vault. These latter aspects come to the fore when buying as a hobby, where emotional arguments such as aesthetics, history or brand name prevail.
In every case: if you buy timepieces from reputable dealers and are well informed, you reduce the risk of a bad purchase to a minimum and can enjoy all the advantages of the pre-owned market.
