Exceptionally thin mechanical wristwatches have been growing steadily in popularity for several years now. On the one hand, they look especially elegant; on the other, they are regarded as proof of exceptional watchmaking skill. In this article, we introduce readers of our magazine to a selection of particularly thin watches from the luxury segment.
Thin Watches: Size Isn't Everything
Compare today's high-end mechanical wristwatches with examples from the 1950s or early 1960s, and you'll notice that they have generally become considerably larger and thicker. This "growth" is partly due to changing tastes. But the rise of automatic watches has also played a role, since housing a self-winding mechanism with its oscillating weight, or rotor, takes up more space than a manually wound mechanical movement.
Add complications such as a chronograph function or a more elaborate calendar, and a case height of 15 millimeters or more is quickly reached. Combined with a correspondingly large diameter, dimensions like these make a bold statement, as such a watch draws attention by virtue of its size alone. These models do not, however, go with elegant evening wear, and overly conspicuous watches are likewise considered inappropriate with formal business attire. What's more, regardless of any question of style, a relatively large watch can also be a real hindrance for practical reasons – for example, when your shirt or jacket cuff keeps catching on it instead of gliding easily over it.
All of this makes a strong case for continuing to develop and produce very thin wristwatches. Then there are the aesthetic considerations: an exceptionally thin watch has a visual appeal all its own and looks particularly elegant. And of course, building a movement of exceptionally low height is an excellent way to demonstrate comprehensive watchmaking expertise.
Bruno Söhnle Rondo – Thin Wristwatches for Women and Men
Compared with other luxury watch brands, the Bruno Söhnle watch atelier from Glashütte in Saxony is still relatively young. Its Rondo line comprises a range of women's and men's watches distinguished by an especially thin construction and a highly recognizable look. The name of the line alludes to two of its defining features: the perfectly round case and the round subdial of the small seconds. The women's version, called "Rondo Small," and the men's version differ mainly in case diameter, which measures 33 and 38 millimeters respectively.
Both versions of the Bruno Söhnle Rondo share the same dial and case design, which sets itself apart from countless other watches through a few original details. These include the placement of the date window at 2 o'clock and the small seconds at 7 o'clock. In addition, the crown sits not at 3 o'clock but at 4 o'clock. In keeping with the elegant, slim case, the dials are deliberately understated. Twelve and six o'clock are marked with Arabic numerals, the remaining hours with simple baton indices. Precise quartz movements provide the power. The straps are available in fine calfskin or stainless steel. The women's version of the Bruno Söhnle Rondo has a case height of 6.1 millimeters; the men's version is just 0.1 millimeters thicker.
Within the luxury segment, the Bruno Söhnle Rondo is likely to appeal especially to "entry-level" buyers, as its prices are in the mid three-figure euro range and thus extremely moderate.
Timeless Classic Thin-O-Matic: Thin Watches from Hamilton
The Hamilton Timeless Classic Thin-O-Matic sits in a similar price bracket. This men's watch has its design roots in the 1960s – the era in which Hamilton first made a name for itself with a watch of this name. With a case height of 11.15 millimeters and a diameter of 42 millimeters, the watch may at first glance seem relatively thick for a model in the "thin wristwatch" category, but inside it hides a mechanical self-winding movement. Taking into account the extra space this requires inside the case, the dimensions of the Hamilton Timeless Classic Thin-O-Matic are by no means too bulky.
Its credentials as a dress watch, however, rest not on that alone but at least as much on its elegant design. With a black dial and black leather strap, this three-hand watch with central seconds and date at 3 o'clock looks particularly elegant. Incidentally, Hamilton also offers a fairly similar quartz-powered alternative in the Jazzmaster Thinline.
Zenith Elite Ultra Thin – Exceptionally Thin Wristwatches Despite Automatic Winding
With the models of its Elite line, the luxury watch manufacture Zenith pushes into entirely new dimensions. These ultra-thin wristwatches are by no means quartz-driven; instead, they are fitted with self-winding Elite calibers. Their balance beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour – yet the movement is only just over three millimeters thick. This makes the women's and men's versions of the line ideal above all for those who value style and quality as much as understatement.
They lend their wearer an aura of discreet elegance and class not only in everyday working life, but also complement any kind of formal evening wear with the utmost style. As three-hand watches with central seconds, they are pared down to the essentials. Even a date window was omitted so as not to disturb the calm, symmetrically balanced look of the dial.
The collection is divided into 3 lines:
Thin Wristwatches in a Class of Their Own: Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra Thin
Simplicity may not be the first quality many watch enthusiasts would instinctively associate with Hublot watches.
But ever since this still comparatively young yet rapidly growing luxury watchmaker launched its Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra Thin in 2013, that impression deserves to be revised. With central hour and minute hands, small seconds at 6 o'clock and simple baton indices, the dial of this model genuinely looks understated despite its considerable 45-millimeter case diameter – especially compared with some of the brand's far more opulent models. The case is available in gold or titanium; the dials come in black or white.
A true highlight lies inside the Hublot Classic Fusion Ultra Thin: the in-house manual-winding caliber HUB1300, just 2.9 millimeters thick, which impresses with its precision as much as with its 90-hour power reserve. Exceptionally thin wristwatches from the Classic Fusion line are also available in a skeletonized version that should particularly delight fans of mechanics. The watch is likewise offered in a 42 mm version.
