« An Uncompromising Classic Revives the Charm of 1978 »
Rarely has a newcomer in the affordable price range attracted more attention than the new Tissot PRX 40 205: Inspired by the tonneau-shaped cases and integrated steel bracelets of the '70s, this retro dress watch strikes a chord with the zeitgeist and offers a lot of quality for the money. At launch, the lineup comprises three quartz references, but automatic versions will be added later.
PRX: Precise, Robust, 10 Bar
The historical model for the new Tissot PRX is a stainless steel watch from 1978 that combined the typical design features of its era: Not only its slim silhouette, made possible by the then cutting-edge quartz movement, but also its barrel-shaped case ("tonneau") reflected the trends of the day. Because the latter did without conventional lugs and instead featured a single, wide bracelet attachment, it allowed for a seamless transition to the stainless steel bracelet.
An early '80s style that also gave Gérald Genta's luxury icons, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, their look. Tissot passed on naming its watch after a boat and, a few years after its debut, gave the striking sports watch a far more pragmatic name: PRX. To this day, the abbreviation stands for "precise," "robust," and "ten" (X), a reference to its water resistance of 10 bar, or 100 meters.
That's not the only bridge between old and new, as the full name of the 2021 model shows. Its suffix "40 205" corresponds to the product number of the original timepiece and underlines the importance of its historical inspiration.
Bigger Than on Paper: The Tonneau Case
Launched as part of the Tissot T-Classic collection, the newcomer aims to be a classic wristwatch and, despite its eye-catching case, should not be mistaken for an outlandish oddity. Rather, the point is to express elegant lines in an unconventional and creative way. Tissot adopts the streamlined design of 1978 and relies largely on satin-brushed surfaces for the 316L stainless steel case. In some places, such as the bezel, the edges, and the bracelet links, polished surfaces come into play, giving the PRX an exceptionally high-end look that is confirmed by its solid feel.
The stated diameter of 40 millimeters should be taken with a grain of salt, because the tonneau case has a much stronger wrist presence than a round case of the same size. We recommend reading 40 as 42 and not expecting a miniature dress watch when you order. On the plus side, the moderate lug-to-lug distance of 44 millimeters stands out; it results from the absence of conventional lugs and ensures the Tissot PRX also suits slimmer wrists.
Integrated Bracelet: The Highlight on the Wrist
The T-Classic strikingly continues its lines into the stainless steel bracelet, which flows seamlessly from the case. The flexible links, which span the full width and taper remarkably, are responsible for the high everyday wearing comfort: The width narrows from 26 millimeters at the case to 18 millimeters at the butterfly deployant clasp. The bracelet's strengths lie not only in its high-quality execution, but also in how rare an integrated design is in the three-figure price range.
The PRX manages to bring a design previously reserved for the luxury segment into the affordable range while delivering very respectable quality standards.
These are further reinforced by swim-proof 100-meter water resistance and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Around back, you'll find a no-frills, flat stainless steel caseback and quick-release spring bars for swapping the bracelet yourself. This feature hints at a future expansion of the collection with matching leather or rubber straps, since not just any strap can be fitted to this special construction.
Retro Dress Watch with a Simple Dial
Speaking of the collection: Three quartz models are currently available, differing solely in their dial design. While the blue (Ref. T137.410.11.041.00) and black (Ref. T137.410.11.051.00) versions feature silver hands and indices and exude a sporty modernity, the silver-gray version with gold-tone accents (Ref. T137.410.11.031.00) expresses an early '80s style. This impression is emphasized by the finishes of each version: The black and blue Tissot PRX watches shine with an elegant sunburst finish, while the silver-gray timepiece features a retro-inspired vertical brushing.
What all editions share is a consistent focus on the essentials: Twelve applied indices and remarkably three-dimensional hands meet a familiar date display at 3 o'clock. A clear plus is the ample Super-LumiNova coating on the hour and minute hands and the slim indices, whereas the white date disc looks rather out of place on the dark dials. A color-matched disc with white numerals would be more harmonious – an extra effort rarely found in this price range due to standardized components. A nice detail is the retro typography of the PRX logo, which on the automatic models will be supplemented by the name of the Powermatic caliber. Those models are also expected to feature a transparent caseback, adding extra appeal to the dress watch's overall package.
Slim Case Thanks to the ETA Quartz Movement
Until then, the classic wristwatch will be powered exclusively by the electronic ETA caliber F06.115, whose slim construction allows the Tissot PRX a relatively low case height of 10.4 millimeters.
As is typical of the mass producer's quartz movements, it is equipped with an EOL ("End Of Life") indicator, which signals an impending battery change by altering the stepping rhythm of the seconds hand.
Given the usual battery life of at least five years, however, this scenario rarely occurs. All quartz models of the PRX are priced at €350. Reasonable terms that put a compelling package on the wrist, and not just for retro enthusiasts: Its blend of originality and elegance, high robustness, and impeccable quality standards make this Swiss timepiece one of the most attractive options in its class. With this recipe, strong sales are guaranteed.
