« Glashütte, Black Forest or Frankfurt? »
Think Swiss watches are the undisputed benchmark? Then you haven't yet discovered the exciting diversity of German watch brands: from the Black Forest to the manufactures of Glashütte, there are distinctive designs, high quality standards and plenty of tradition to discover. What's especially impressive is the wide range of models priced up to €5,000. We show you which editions you should know and what sets the individual brands apart.
From State-Owned Enterprise to Independence: The Fascination of Glashütte Original
The first of our seven German watch brands is also the most luxurious: Glashütte Original. Founded in 1845 by the renowned watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the company has one of the most fascinating histories in the entire industry:
A flourishing rise until World War II, followed by destruction, dismantling and nationalization as the "people-owned enterprise" Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). Since German reunification, the brand, now part of the Swatch Group, has been independent again and stands apart from Swiss manufacturers through signature features such as blued hands, the elegant swan-neck regulator and stripe finishing.
The most important collection is the classic Senator line, which starts at around €4,000 and covers every complication up to an €80,000 tourbillon. A trip back to the company's GDR era is offered by the Sixties models with their 1960s look and the retro editions of the Seventies line. And if you like things especially exclusive, go for the gold or platinum watches of the Pano edition, which stands out from the crowd with its off-center dials.
Glashütte Quality at Affordable Prices
That said, you don't have to spend a fortune to enjoy Glashütte quality standards. The proof comes from Union Glashütte: positioned between €1,000 and €3,000, the innovative portfolio of this German watch brand consists exclusively of mechanical collections and is highly versatile in terms of design.
The Belisar line has a decidedly sporty focus, while the popular 1893 series couldn't be more classic. Elegant numerals, functional full calendars and solid construction define these watches, named after the company's founding year: opened in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein, the firm lived through the rise and fall of the Saxon watch industry firsthand. Also absorbed into GUB, privatized in 1994 and part of the Swatch Group since 2008, today's manufacturer is a true insider tip for mechanical enthusiasts and scores with excellent value for money.
These are criteria that another brand from the world-famous watchmaking town meets with flying colors: Mühle Glashütte. Although it covers a similar price range to Union, it places a stronger focus on functional applications. Water in particular plays a major role at Mühle: family-owned since its founding in 1868 and re-established several times over the course of its history, this German watch brand has specialized since 1994 in nautical instruments such as marine chronometers and larger clock systems.
This expertise shapes not only the divers of the ProMare collection and the extreme Rasmus 2000 (water-resistant to 2,000 meters), but also the manufacturer's classic instruments. Particularly popular is the Teutonia II series, where elegant lines meet the robustness typical of a Mühle. It starts at around €1,600 for the simplest editions and goes up to about €3,000 for the chronographs.
Sinn – Professional Tool Watches from Frankfurt
When it comes to pure functionality and technical innovation, nobody can beat the heritage brand Sinn from Frankfurt. Founded in 1961 by passionate flight instructor and pilot Helmut Sinn, the manufacturer is best known for its instrument chronographs . Editions such as the 103 or 140 offer robustness and reliability unmatched on the German market. Sinn's entry-level model is the 556 at just under €1,000, and the range tops out at around €5,000 (apart from rare gold and special models).
What sets the watches from the city on the Main apart from other manufacturers is a wealth of in-house innovations, such as the lubricant-free DIAPAL lever escapement and TEGIMENT technology for exceptionally scratch-resistant surfaces.
That this German watch brand also masters aesthetics is proven by its Frankfurt Financial District watches: around €3,000 gets you some of the most beautiful and elegant dress watches made in Germany.
Junghans – Progress and Visual Clarity from Schramberg
From Frankfurt to the Black Forest, home since 1861 to what is probably Germany's most famous watch brand. Junghans currently offers eight collections, among which the Max Bill watch collection, launched in 1961, stands out as a minimalist icon. Designed by the Swiss artist of the same name in the unmistakable Bauhaus style, the line embraces maximum reduction and still looks modern after almost 60 years. Prices start at about €400 for the quartz and around €800 for the automatic versions. The Meister Mega collection is similarly timeless, but instead of traditional mechanics it relies on state-of-the-art radio-controlled technology.
A perpetual calendar through the year 2400, automatic time correction and other features make the line Junghans' digital pioneer. Given the manufacturer's innovative history, that's no surprise: in 1971 the Schramberg company presented the first German quartz movement, followed in 1990 by the Mega 1, the world's first digital radio-controlled wristwatch.
Back to Glashütte: Ultra-Modern Designs from the Müglitz Valley
Modernity is also the perfect keyword for Nomos. Back amid Glashütte's impressive variety of brands, we meet a young, forward-thinking brand that makes no compromises on quality. Nomos places particular emphasis on its high level of in-house production of around 95 percent, far exceeding the Glashütte rule of 50 percent – below that threshold, no watch may bear the local seal of quality. Timelessness and minimalism define all collections, with the Tangente watches being especially popular.
Together with the angular Tetra and the classic Orion, these models debuted in 1992, just two years after the company was founded. What makes Nomos particularly attractive is its great value for money: for up to about €4,000 you get craftsmanship that is in no way inferior to the prestigious Swiss brands. If you're interested in an appealing selection in the three-figure price range, you don't have to travel far: just a few streets from Nomos you'll find Bruno Söhnle, which impresses from around €200 with high-quality quartz and automatic models in a contemporary style.
Among the most popular editions of this German watch brand are the Grandioso chronograph, the Rondo with small seconds, and women's watches from the Gemelli and Nabucco collections. German quality craftsmanship, distinctive designs – no domestic manufacturer offers more watch for the money than Bruno Söhnle.
