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Alongside chronographs, dive watches rank among the most popular men's wristwatches, and they are increasingly winning over women as well. Some models have been on the market for many years or even decades and still look thoroughly contemporary, even though their design has remained virtually unchanged all that time. We took a closer look at the quintessential dive watch classics.
The Rolex Submariner – the quintessential classic dive watch
If you measure a product's success by how often other manufacturers have tried to imitate it, the Rolex Submariner is by far the most successful dive watch of all time. Hardly any other watch has been counterfeited as often as this one, and numerous dive watches from other brands show at least a clear resemblance in design.
To this day, watch enthusiasts love to debate whether the Rolex Submariner or the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first series-produced dive watch back in the 1950s. No one disputes, however, that the Submariner was among the very first watches in this category.
It is no coincidence that the brand with the crown was one of the underwater pioneers in the luxury watch segment. When it developed this classic dive watch, the manufacture could already draw on more than two decades of experience in building water-resistant watches.
The company founded by Hans Wilsdorf was one of the very first watchmakers to tackle the problem of sealing watches against water ingress. One result of this research and development was the Oyster concept, which reached market maturity in the 1920s, remains successful to this day, and is closely tied to Rolex's international breakthrough.
The Submariner and its sister model, the Sea-Dweller – almost identical at first glance but considerably more robust – are among the best-known Rolex models of all and have had a lasting influence on the design of dive watches as a genre.
Their most characteristic design elements include the sturdy case with a metal bracelet, the knurled unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives, and the simple hands and indices designed for optimal legibility. On models with a date display at 3 o'clock, there is another signature feature: the Cyclops magnifier built into the crystal.
The Seamaster – a classic in Omega's lineup
With its Seamaster collection, Omega also offers dive watches that have undoubtedly earned classic status. That applies to the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean just as much as to the Omega Seamaster 300 M Chrono Diver.
The latter line in particular quickly became a true dive watch classic – not least thanks to its role as the "007 watch" on James Bond's wrist. To mark the line's 25th anniversary, Omega refreshed it both visually and technically without sacrificing too much of what, in the eyes of its fans, gives these watches their special character. Skeleton hands and the signature stainless steel bracelet still guarantee instant recognizability.
What is new, however, is the much broader range of models, as the 300 M is now available in many different lines.
Design details that underline the individuality of the collections include bezels made of ceramic and Ceragold or of enamel, and black or blue dials made of polished ceramic that, of course, still feature the characteristic wave pattern. Unlike its predecessors, the new Seamaster Diver Professional has its date display at 6 o'clock rather than at 3 o'clock.
Classic dive watches from Tudor, Breitling, and TAG Heuer
Even though many mechanical watch enthusiasts may think first of the relevant Omega and Rolex models when it comes to classic dive watches, it's worth remembering that other manufacturers also offer models designed for diving that have achieved classic status thanks to their distinctive design and enduring popularity over many years.
One example is the Breitling Superocean. Today its design appeals above all to fans of sporty retro watches. The fact that it is usually paired with a distinctive stainless steel Milanese bracelet in particular makes this dive watch look especially elegant. Compared with other models that emphasize a decidedly sporty, rugged look, it comes across almost as a dress watch with dive watch credentials. The Breitling Superocean may sometimes stand somewhat in the shadow of the brand's world-famous pilot's chronographs, but it is absolutely on par with models such as the Submariner or the Seamaster.
Another classic dive watch is the Tudor Black Bay. Although Tudor is often perceived as Rolex's more affordable sister brand, the Black Bay is anything but a "Submariner light." On the contrary, the Tudor Black Bay delights the eye with a design that shows remarkable independence, especially in a dive watch segment marked by so many lookalikes.
Besides brand hallmarks such as the Tudor rose on the crown, it is above all the design of the hands that makes this watch so recognizable. They stand out thanks to the square set on its point, which also gives them their name: "snowflake hands." All things considered, the Tudor Black Bay is an excellent luxury watch at a very attractive price for its market segment and its specifications.
Last but not least, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer deserves a mention. It owes its classic status and great popularity not only to its striking design with the twelve-sided bezel, but at least as much to a range of models that is unusually wide for a dive watch. There are numerous Aquaracer models for both women and men, differing in materials and colors as well as in case sizes and movements.
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection includes both quartz and automatic watches and, in both versions, offers outstanding value for money. In addition to the classic three-hand models, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer is also available as a chronograph and as a GMT watch.