« The Comeback of the Very First Navitimer Design »
Exactly 60 years after its debut, Breitling is celebrating the legendary Ref. 806 1959 with a highly promising re-edition. Not only in looks but also in its technical makeup, this re-edition of the Navitimer model sticks closely to the original. Has the Swiss luxury brand pulled off an authentic rebirth, or has the pilot's watch lost its character in the face of modernity? We took a closer look at the new timepiece.
Strikingly Similar: The Design
First introduced in 1952, the Navitimer famously went on to become one of the most successful and distinctive chronographs of our time. It all began with the original model bearing reference number 806, which appeared in various versions from 1952 onward, including the 1959 version that now ranks among the most sought-after vintage editions with collectors.
The main reason is the classic's pure, expressive design: with its deep black dial, contrasting white markings, and the finely beaded bezel, the Ref. 806 1959 captures the spirit of traditional aviation more powerfully than most other versions. Now let's turn our attention to the re-edition launched in 2019.
If it happens to be lying right next to the original, that may be harder than it sounds. In short, the resemblance to the original Ref. 806 1959 is remarkable. Not only the entire dial design and the case size of exactly 40.9 millimeters, but also the 94 beads on the bezel have been carried over one-to-one. Protected, as on the vintage model, by comparatively fragile but all the more authentic Plexiglas, the new edition displays two hallmark features of reference 806: the Breitling lettering in capitals on the one hand, and the wings logo without lettering, which differs from today's emblem, on the other.
Even with the leather strap, which looks spartan yet somehow timeless, you have to look very closely to spot any differences between the two watches.
Modernized Technology with Traditional Manual Winding
It is indeed fair to ask how the Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition differs from its 60-year-old predecessor at all. As far as the case and looks are concerned, only two differences stand out: the contemporary Super-LumiNova coating on the numerals and the water resistance, updated for the 21st century but still relatively modest at 30 meters.
By far the biggest difference from the Ref. 806 1959 ticks inside this Swiss masterpiece and goes by the name B09. It is an in-house manufacture movement that clearly outperforms the original model's movement both in precision and with its generous 70-hour power reserve.
Despite the modern technology, the designers placed great emphasis on staying true to the original Breitling: not only was the classic manual winding retained, but also the solid caseback. This sets the Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition apart from the rest of today's manufacture models, which usually feature a sapphire display back. For enthusiasts, however, this should be no disappointment at all, but rather one more reason to appreciate the re-edition for its closeness to the original.
Navitimer: A History That Speaks for Itself
Why the manufacturer, founded in 1884, still pays tribute to the early Navitimer models and keeps expanding the chronograph's lineup becomes clear on closer inspection of the pilot's watch's outstanding significance.
Conceived as the successor to the Chronomat, introduced in 1942 and used by the US Air Force among others, it revolutionized the world of portable timekeeping above all with its multifunctional slide rule. After the Ref. 806 1959 became a major success (thanks in no small part to marketing that remains savvy to this day), Breitling focused on continuously developing the line.
In the early 1960s, this led to the sister model Cosmonaute with a 24-hour display. Made famous by orbiting the Earth on the wrist of NASA astronaut Scott Carpenter in May 1962, it ushered in a new era for the Navitimer.
After first equipping all models of the pilot's watch with a date display, the Grenchen-based brand took the decisive step toward the automatic watch in 1969.
What many people don't know: the first automatic movement in a Navitimer, the Chrono-Matic Caliber 11, was developed in collaboration with Hamilton and Heuer-Leonidas, which is why it can also be found in those manufacturers' watches of the period.
After the quartz crisis of the seventies and eighties, which forced Breitling, too, to produce a number of electronic pilot's watches and nearly spelled the end for the heritage brand, the famous model returned to its former glory in the 1990s. Today, the famous chronograph's product portfolio is larger than ever: while the classic editions rely on the signature design of the early models and are available in many variants such as the Navitimer 1 Chronograph GMT and the Navitimer B03 Rattrapante, the recently launched Navitimer 8 represents a modern interpretation of the pilot's watch.
The most traditional of these timepieces, however, is arguably the new Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, with which Breitling reveals the historical roots of its successful model almost unchanged.
Conclusion: Modern Performance Meets Proud Tradition
So is the new re-edition a worthy successor to the Ref. 806 1959, or not? On closer inspection, there can be only one answer: yes. While many other re-editions are far too "new" and barely reveal any connection to their history, Breitling's chronograph delivers a nearly exact replica of its predecessor, with all its strengths and weaknesses.
The greatest feat of all is arguably the B09 caliber: the movement strikes the rare balance between modern precision and traditional manual winding, without distorting the character of the original in the slightest. Bravo, Breitling!
