« The Uhrinstinkt Top 5 of 2021 »
For all the advantages of automatic timepieces, the classic hand-wound movement remains as popular as ever. Its need to be fed energy by hand creates an intimate bond between person and mechanism that fascinates traditionalists and modern watch lovers alike. Our top 5 hand-wound men's watches reveal which models deserve a closer look in 2021.
The Transparent One: Tissot T-Classic Chemin des Tourelles Squelette
If it were purely a matter of rationality, mechanical watches would stand no chance against their more accurate, lower-maintenance quartz-powered alternatives. It's emotion that turns a hand-wound watch into an object of desire. The Tissot T-Classic Chemin des Tourelles Squelette (Ref. T099.405.36.418.00) knows exactly how to play on those feelings, granting its owner sweeping views into its inner workings. There, the curious eye is greeted by a large ETA 6497 that fills almost the entire 42 millimeter diameter, its generous perlage a noticeable step up from the mass producer's standard calibers. Visible from both sides, the movement impresses with gold-toned wheels and even offers a glimpse of the mainspring barrel at five o'clock. The power reserve tops out at 46 hours.
Other details, such as the domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, also reveal the Tourelles Squelette's elevated standing within the Tissot universe. The rose gold-tone PVD coating gives these hand-wound men's watches their fitting dose of traditionalism, further reinforced by the classic brown leather strap and Roman numerals. These are paired with black hands and a small seconds subdial whose legibility is more of an afterthought. If you want to enjoy a full-width view of the mechanics, you'll need to set aside €1,910. The Chemin des Tourelles with a closed dial, meanwhile, is available only as an automatic.
The Car Enthusiast: Junghans Meister Driver Handaufzug
The German competition enters the race more discreetly with the compact 37.7 millimeter Junghans Meister Driver Handaufzug (Ref. 27/3607.00). The Black Forest brand knows that a love of horological mechanics is rarely far removed from a passion for automobiles, and treats these men's watches to a vintage design meant to evoke the early years of the motorcar. With success: anyone who takes in the blend of faux patina and retro typography, the pairing of railroad minute track and small seconds, can easily picture the Meister Driver in a café in 1890. On the chain of an onlooker staring open-mouthed at the first horseless "witch carts."
In 2021, of course, the Meister is worn on the wrist, where the harmoniously shaped stainless steel case, just 7.3 millimeters thin, has a delicate presence. While the front of this hand-wound watch features traditional hardened Plexiglas (exchangeable for sapphire crystal if you prefer), the caseback boasts a display window. It offers a view of the J815.1 caliber (based on the ETA 7001), which runs on its own for up to 42 hours. If you want to experience the Driver's automotive charm and first-rate legibility for yourself, it will cost you €1,170. Alternatives can be found in the Junghans Meister Handaufzug collection.
The Co-Pilot: Breitling AVI 1953 Edition
The Breitling AVI 1953 Edition (Ref. AB0920131B1X1) is impressive proof that historical ties play a special role in hand-wound men's watches. Modeled on the legendary Co-Pilot Ref. 765 AVI from 1953, which, together with the Navitimer of the day, stood at the pinnacle of Swiss pilot's watches, the newcomer imitates its predecessor down to the last detail. Not only the all-black dial, but also the numerals, subdials, and luminous coating are nearly indistinguishable from the original. Our favorite feature: the three-minute intervals of the 15-minute counter. The 41 millimeter diameter of the stainless steel case, the three screws on the bezel, and the Hesalite crystal have also been carried over one-to-one. Only the absence of the "Geneve" lettering on the dial gives the AVI 1953 away as a modern product.
Technically, the 21st century makes itself felt in two details: first, water resistance has been increased to a (still borderline) 30 meters; second, the in-house B09 caliber ticks inside. It is a hand-wound derivative of the B01 with the familiar 70-hour power reserve, hidden beneath a solid stainless steel caseback. Just 1,953 examples of the pilot's watch are being made, each finding its way into the collections of interested enthusiasts for €7,800.
The Soldier: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
Hamilton's hand-wound men's watches are considerably more affordable, and among them the Khaki Field Mechanical is a true icon. For a reasonable €470 (Ref. H69439931), this textbook military watch has plenty to offer: scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, an 80-hour power reserve, and 50 meters of water resistance make the Khaki the perfect all-rounder. Add to that the outstanding legibility of the Arabic numerals, supported by bright lume and a distinctive 24-hour scale.
The slim 38 millimeter stainless steel case is equally military in character, suits every wrist size (except perhaps the very largest), and, thanks to its brushed finish, is more resilient than polished versions. Beneath the steel caseback of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical ticks the familiar H-50, which is based on the ETA 2801-2 and easily keeps running for an entire weekend when fully wound.
The Understated One: Omega De Ville Tresor
Also part of the Swatch Group, but two leagues above the functional Khaki men's watches, we are greeted by the Omega De Ville Tresor (Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001). In contrast to the universally popular Seamaster and Speedmaster watches, it is a niche product for connoisseurs: only those who know the true face behind the understated stainless steel case can fully appreciate it. Inside the 40 millimeter case works the Master Co-Axial caliber 8910, whose manual winding comes paired with a 72-hour power reserve, magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, and a silicon balance spring. Decoration comes in the form of the brand's signature Geneva waves in arabesque, which, with no rotor in the way, come through more purely than on any automatic watch from the Biel-based luxury brand.
On the front of the Omega De Ville Tresor, understatement reigns in its purest form. The domed, opaline silver dial looks refined and elegant, featuring nothing beyond three wafer-thin hands and a date display at six o'clock. Only a closer look or a trained eye will reveal that the hands and indexes are made of 18-karat white gold. A cultivated character that epitomizes the genre of hand-wound men's watches: guided by traditional standards, they stylishly unite centuries-old mechanical fascination with the achievements of the modern age. In the case of the Omega De Ville Tresor, this symbiosis costs €6,300.
